It's a bit daunting to have to dedicate a blog post to two full days of Babymoon, but I will do my best.
After Friday morning's key fiasco, we got a little bit of a late start in leaving the Pismo Beach area. We decided to take Highway 1 and visit the famed Hearst Castle. We arrived just in time for the 12:00 p.m. garden and vista tour of the property. Unfortunately, you must join a tour in order to see the place, which we didn't love. The gardens and views are stunning and the guest houses extravagant, yet, after a while, we wondered what the point is of preserving this over the top residence. Plus, we were starting to feel the pressure to get up to Half Moon Bay in time to get ready for Shabbat. (Aaron says: Hearst Castle is like havingg a really really nice couch in a formal room that nobody is allowed to touch. Why?? There are two pools filled with water and kept up.. that may not be used!)
The drive up the 1 is just unbelievably beautiful and each area seemed more lovely than the last (Aaron says: Most beautiful drive..EVER!). It was all going well until the turn off toward Santa Cruz where we sat in infuriating one-lane traffic for so long that we were sure we weren't going to make it before candle lighting. Plus, the iPod had no juice so we were forced to listen to whatever the one radio station that came in was playing. I guess we could have just talked...Somehow, we got to our Half Moon Bay hotel just in time to get some groceries together for Shabbat and settle in.
The next day, we ate a leisurely breakfast on the patio and realized that Half Moon Bay is much colder than Pismo Beach. Apparently, this time of year, the hot air mixes with the cold ocean air, creating a heavy fog. Still, when we took our Shabbat walk to the ocean, the fog couldn't diminish the sight that awaited us. Though our room overlooks part of the famous Half Moon Bay Links course, we decided we wanted to see more.
We walked the 3/4 of a mile from our hotel down to the coastal area. As we walked, Aaron marveled at the green expanses of the Links course and felt the same bittersweet pain at seeing it as when we had to drive past the Pebble Beach exit on the highway, getting further and further away from the US Open Golf Tournament (Aaron says: Seriously. We drove RIGHT by Pebble Beach. Pain.). The ocean front area looks down along the water with its magnificent cliffs and coves. We headed toward the Ritz-Carleton hotel which is built in a prime spot overlooking the water and sitting on a cliff and encompasses the two beautiful golf courses. The hotel's back patios are perfect for weddings and in fact, one area was set up for a wedding later in the day. We found some Adirondack chairs with a great view of the cliffs and ocean as well as the 18th hole of the Old Course. It was so nice to sit there and relax among such beauty.
We headed back to the hotel where we had a private picnic lunch near the pool on the patio. We dipped in the hot tub (I just dipped my legs) and then we took luxurious Shabbat naps. Later in the afternoon, we headed back to the Ritz-Carleton beach/golf area since it's totally magnificent as well as the only thing within walking distance of the hotel.
As we sat and watched the surf, the golfers and the wedding reception, suddenly, the sun appeared as the clouds and fog dissipated. I didn't think the coastline could look any more gorgeous but somehow it did. The late afternoon light made the colors of the water and the green hills of the links course look brighter, more intense and stunning. I was overcome by the beauty and had to make a blessing. (Aaron says: Penina is a bracha master.) As we walked along the cliffs, it really felt like we were in Scotland, the place where golf originated. To add to that image, a bagpiper in traditional Scottish garb appeared and began to play. It was unreal!!
As the sun began to set, we returned the hotel and relaxed a bit as Shabbat made its exit. After Shabbat, we decided to see Half Moon Bay's downtown and we hoped something would still be open. After driving by a number of dark blocks, I noticed an Italian restaurant still open. We were pleased that they sat us despite the kitchen's desire to close. That was when we had our first real meal of the vacation: morrel mushroom fetuccini with truffle oil and smoked trout salad with avocados, poached potatoes in an avocado dressing and rich butterscotch pudding for dessert. Each course was decadent, delicious and surprisingly affordable. We really scored!
Today was just a reminder of how amazing California is. We both feel that it is the most beautiful state we have seen, and I could be happy driving up and down the coast experiencing the charm and majesty of each area. We've already seen so much of it, but there is still so much more....Ah!
Tomorrow, we will relax around here before heading out to SF!
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